Asger Juel Larsen AW12

I regularly work with the designer and good friend Asger Juel Larsen. His new collection Lucid Disorder was without doubt my favourite of his to date. The press review I wrote for him is posted below. To check out more, visit his inspired site HERE!

Asger's Lucid Disorder is introduced with a leather top that has a melting straightjacket aesthetic to it, deliciously darting between dreamy and dystopian. There's an immediate air of sophistication to the start of this collection, with coats that focus on boldness rather than erratically shaped behaviour, and furry soviet hats that nestle the story into shape. Soft black turtle necks are the intimate antidote underneath blood red peacoats that sharply bleed a bold masculine stance. Funnel necks highten this hibernating vibe, and jacket sleeves look like chic weaponry from a sci-fi scene. The colours have a rural essence that have been stained with an industrial scent, with burnt gold, rusty grey and weathered browns attractively taming intimidation.

The head to toe tapestry suit is even engraved into the collection, where a golden offbeat egyptian print defies the stereotype that brighter colours can't have a darker treasure tone to them. The gothic quirk of Ssger is never rejected though, as a blazer is deconstructed in a similar look into a sharp and suave military mood vest. Unexpected zips look like metal etched scars that rip across the body like armor, encouraging looks that can adapt and evolve to aggressive climates. Clean silhouettes are punnished with a subtle infusion of textures, where patent erodes into epic leather. Asymmetric magic also plays with part of the disorder; deconstructed tops offer a beautifully broekn down look, and tops swarm and reverse up the models to chameleon a sensual gothic headscarf.

There's also a trademark urban alliance to the collection, where beanies blend in with rippling and rebellious drop crotch trousers and red velvet tops. East 17 meets the snow stained wilderness. The final look bears vulnerability and boldness in a juxtaposed showstopping manner. The red peacoat is fleshed out to its minimum, relying on the sharp dagger outline that reveals the models chest. Mixed with trojan leather trousers, the lucid disorder infusion is in full industrial force.