I was recently in touch with Nicomede Talavera, a Central Saint Martin's BA Menswear Fashion Design student, who turned to futurism and a fascination with photodynamic photography. This photographical concept showcases movement; where a tragic pause, a gesture of terror, or the entire scene can all be expressed in one single piece of work, and I was instantly attracted to this electric shock.
'Inside out' layering and colour blocking comes to mind when I first see the Spring/Summer collection, with skin toned sleeves poking out of sticky electric tar tops. The shorts echo this effect, looking like cycling or postman shorts from the future with bite to them. Clashing black and white with muted skin tones and greys makes for a suprisingly fresh aesthetic; heightened by the inspired juxtaposition of tailored jackets with urban luxe shorts and ice white sneakers. Despite these clashes and colour blocks, the collection is coherent and exudes a 'futuristic vintage' tone, where dusty classics meets sharp urban cuts and tailoring. Take the white snowflake textured jumper, so intricate it fizzes and sparks to the eye. This bohemian feel is paired over 3/4 length sticky black trousers that have an eclectic underground sportswear feel.
In previous posts I've acknowledged how androgynous layers of black are my favourite playground, but Nicomede is a designer that illustrates how the transition into seasonal colour can be a subtle affair. My favourite piece from the Summer collection is the slouched mohair tank top, which on closer inspection looks like a tapestry of spider cobwebs and cigarette fumes. Paired with caramel pearl shorts that look like sheets of metal that would melt to the touch, dark greys yet again become an accessible pallete for the sun! Human hair and metal bolt accessories enhance this futuristic fairytale, allowing the wearer to constantly exude movement and have a surreal quality. Rabbit fur and neoprene hats complement the futurist feel and add mystery by
concealing the eyes and casting shadows over the face.
The Autumn/Winter collection stays true to Nicomede's tone, mixing a wealth of texture to excite and present the sense of symbiosis. Cardigans intricately bobble like charcoaled snow, with white fur exploding out from the chest like animalistic ice flames and veins. Yet again there's a wonderful juxtaposition of tunes, where modern futuristic construction and colour meets the vintage bohemian flare of fur and brogues. Take the grey jumpsuit effect, which masterfully disguises formal business trousers as subtle drop crotch urban pants. And simple white shirts from afar have jigsaws of shape to them with a waistcoat effect that's reversed and popped out. This marriage of sophistication with 'slouch' is a tricky relationship which Nicomede effortlessly achieves. I particularly admire the menswear innovation that could have been slightly inspired by female trends. The chunky knit socks rippling over military boots is a unisex and seasonal treat.
So for the adventurous man that has a playful flavour for the future, but also enjoys the current vintage bohemian trends, Nicomede offers a fairground of texture and electric tones that fizz through both seasons. Head to
http://nicomedetalavera.com/index.html to see more, and let me know what you think!
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